![]() ![]() Morfudd is adamant that the mix must stay at 80C for 15 seconds for the purposes of pasteurisation, although she concedes that if you don't have a thermometer, waiting until it coats the back of a spoon is also allowed. I then pour the warm milk on to the eggs, stir, and return it all to the pan to effect its miraculous transformation into custard. The egg yolks are beaten with the sugar, as with the Ballymaloe recipe, but there is no mention, thank goodness, of doing so until your arm falls off. The milk and cream are heated, along with the vanilla pods and seeds, to just below boiling point, then set aside. ![]() Lola's ice cream with strawberries from Morfudd Richards' recipe. My third recipe should have no such issues with richness: Morfudd's standard vanilla ice cream has a traditional custard base consisting of 225ml whipping cream, 375ml whole milk, 6 egg yolks, 120g caster sugar and 1½ vanilla pods. The texture is surprisingly smooth, granted, but it's ever so slightly chewy, and lacks the richness I expect from an ice cream. A couple of hours later, I've recovered, and it's ready to test. Once they have, I must get to work on softly whipping 500ml cream, so I can fold the two together and put the resulting mix in the freezer. Egg yolks, being emphatically yellow, take some time to reach this stage. This is poured on to 2 light and fluffy beaten egg yolks by an assistant while I stir furiously – I am forbidden to stop until I have a "thick, creamy white mousse". Photograph: Felicity Cloakeįirst there's the egg mousse to make: 50g of sugar is heated with 125ml water to make a syrup. What she fails to mention is, without a kitchen full of gadgets (I'm trying to do this the old-fashioned way), you may not have the strength even to get it into the freezer in the first place.īallymaloe ice cream from Darina Allen's recipe. To ease myself in gently, I begin with Darina Allen's Ballymaloe vanilla ice cream, which she describes as "very rich and very delicious", and which, apparently, requires no further whisking during the freezing period. The other method is egg-based, and much more labour-intensive. "But it is very nice." Of course it is, I think crossly – it's sugar and cream. "It's not really ice cream," my mum says, helping herself to another scoop. Although it looks strangely like lumpen cottage cheese, possibly due to my overenthusiastic forking, it tastes good: fresh, with a meltingly light, if rather gritty, texture. I repeat this three times, and then leave it for a final hour to set. Half an hour later, I dig it out and stir it with a fork to break up the ice crystals, as instructed, to 'make a uniform slush'. I combine 400g whipping cream with 100g caster sugar and a teaspoon of vanilla extract, then pop the mix into a container for freezing. Philadelphia style ice cream - no cooking required. Only the simplest, 'Philadelphia-style' ices, which are really just flavoured creams, scorn such luxuries. Most will also include an emulsifier, such as xanthan gum (in the case of mass-produced ice cream) or egg yolk, in more traditional recipes. Heston Blumenthal, a self-professed 'ice cream fanatic', explains that all ice creams are made of five key ingredients: ice crystals, fat, sugar, air and 'other solids', including the proteins and minerals contained in the milk. ![]() Before you can go mad with the anchovy palate cleansers, however, it's important to master some basic principles. Secondly, and perhaps more importantly, people tend to be really, really impressed when you serve homemade ice cream. The first is that, as yet, even the poshest supermarkets don't tend to stock the esoteric flavour combinations that characterise the modern ice, which is a pity, because Waitrose could make a killing with my plum & Earl Grey. Ice cream is too light-hearted a foodstuff for snobbery – even the much-derided Mr Whippy can raise a smile on a hot day – but it is worth making yourself, for two reasons. There's something innocently joyful about the stuff – how can anyone be angry when holding a double cone with a flake on top? If James Bond has never disarmed a baddy with a Mr Whippy, then it can only be because of the difficulties of safely transporting a 99 in a Savile Row suit. I don't know much about international diplomacy, but I do have a sneaking suspicion that it probably doesn't make enough use of ice cream. ![]()
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